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Sri Lanka

Tuesday, June 7, 2005 8:05 AM CDT

PHOTOS AND STORY BY WILLIAM RECKTENWALD, FOR THE SOUTHERN

In the native language of this island, Sri Lanka means "Resplendent Land" but today it could be called "resilient land," a tribute to the strength of its people after the tsunami of Dec. 26, 2004.

Sri Lanka, an island nation about the size of West Virginia with a population of 19 million, is recovering and working to restore its important tourism industry.

"Our message to the world is this, 'You warmed us with your sympathy now come and enjoy our hospitality,'" said Prathap Ramanujam, secretary of the ministry of tourism.

"Many people think the entire country was affected," Ramanujam said. "There is a feeling by some of guilt, if they come here to vacation while the people are suffering.

"All of those who lost their homes are in temporary shelters, and many were employed in the tourism industry, and it is important that the tourists return to help the economy," Ramanujam said in a recent interview at his office in Colombo, the capital city.

"Only the beach areas in the south and the east, just 20 percent of the tourist areas, were touched by the tsunami," Ramanujam said. "The cultural attractions, the hill country, the tea gardens, the natural reserves and six of the seven UNESCO recognized cultural sites were far from the tsunami damaged areas."

The sole UNESCO site in the tsunami area is the old town of Galle and its fort built by the Dutch in 1637. While there was extensive damage to some new parts of the city, the massive walls of the fort saved it.

Sri Lanka is already a tourist destination for Europeans attracted by the low prices, and as the U.S. dollar slips against some currencies Sri Lanka remains a travel bargain.

Getting there

"We now have a good connection from JFK in New York City direct to Colombo," Ramanujam said.

You can leave New York at 11:30 p.m. on Emirates Airlines and arrive in Colombo at 9:30 a.m., 24 hours total travel time, with an aircraft change in Dubai.

Alternatives include flying to Bangkok or Singapore, staying there a day or two then heading to Colombo. Or,stop in Europe: Try Zurich, London or Amsterdam then head on to Colombo. With skillful searching and a creative itinerary, you can find a bargain airfare on a good airline for less than $2,000, even from the Midwest.

Accommodations

Plan a few days in Colombo on arrival. It is a friendly city with nice hotels such as the Holiday Inn, the Taj Samudra, the Continental, the Galadari. And the restaurants are great.

The Holiday Inn offers first-class rooms and service and has a delightful pool, exercise room and spa. Doubles start at $59.50.

Across from the Holiday Inn, on 12 acres of fenced grounds, is the Taj Samudra, which has rooms starting at $70. A bit north of these is the Galadari, a modern hotel with a variety of fine dining options and rooms from $85; and the Continental Hotel, which also has excellent food and rooms from $90.

All offer ocean views and are adjacent to the famous Galle Face Green, a gathering spot for Sri Lankans to watch the sunset, fly kites, listen to music and splash in the waves. It is a must see, but resist the temptation to sample food from street vendors.

Eating and drinking

Travelers should drink only bottled water and avoid uncooked food that might have been washed in tap water. But the major Colombo hotels offer delectable, safe food and remarkable low prices.

A good dinner for two with tax and tip costs $14 at several five stars venues. Even the pricey and superb buffet in the Galadari was just $22. Alcoholic beverages are moderately priced. Or try the Veranda of the Galle Face Hotel, a historic 1864 hotel at the south end of the green. Dine next to the Indian Ocean for less that $20. Unfortunately, the guest rooms here have grown tired.

Getting around

Some driving advice for Sri Lanka: Don't.

Do not even think about driving yourself; the traffic is on the wrong side of the road, and you can't read the road signs. Have someone at your hotel meet you at the airport. A car to the city is about $15; someone will be standing with your name on a signboard as you leave customs. There are also transportation desks for hotels in the airport; use them and avoid others who offer taxi service.

You can change money at the airport, as there are also ATM machines there and throughout the country. The exchange rate hovers at about 100 rupees for a dollar, making mental conversation simple. One rupee is a penny.

Once settled in your hotel you can opt for a taxi service arranged by the hotel or you can use the ubiquitous tuk-tuk, a three-wheeled-covered motorbike that can carry three passengers.

Here are the tuk-tuk rules of engagement: Always ask the price before you get in. On a recent visit, I found most short rides were only 100 rupees, I also found a nice man who had been driving for 20 years and I employed him regularly. He would drive me to shop, wait for an hour and return to the hotel for 250 rupees. He was also a careful driver.

For long journeys you can hire a car and driver. Sound expensive? Not really. Check with a travel agent or the travel desk at your hotel. Rates vary, but I have paid on average $30 per day, for five- and six-day periods, and the driver stays with me. More precisely the driver takes me to my hotel and asks when he needs to pick me up again. Many hotels have driver quarters.

I have used a taxi service in Colombo with the same driver, Bernard. He speaks some English, does not scare me with his driving and is very useful in suggesting restaurants and finding points of interest. I tip him about $10 per day at the end of the trip.

There is also train service in Sri Lanka. Trains are old and often crowded but are inexpensive. Get a first-class reservation, if it is available.

When you have rested a day or two in Colombo, you will be ready to travel. You may want to have reservations before you leave. The travel desk of the hotel can handle these, or you can just go.

"This it is a small country," Ramanujam said. "You can go from beach to the hill country in three hours. We have nice golf courses and in a 14-day visit you can see almost everything. Where else can you go from seeing the blue whales to watching wild elephants in just 30 minutes time?"

Don't miss

Head inland toward Kandy, about a three-hour drive into the pleasantly cool hill country. Your driver will suggest a stop at the elephant orphanage; it is worth the visit.

Kandy, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is built around a picturesque lake and home to the Dalada Maligawa, the Temple of the Tooth, one of the most sacred places to Buddhists. Remember to dress conservatively and be prepared to remove your shoes when entering.

The National Botanical Gardens, 4 miles away in Peradeniya, is a 150-acre plot flourishing with more than 5,000 plant species. It is easy to spend an entire day. Be sure to visit the orchid house and spice garden.

Next head north and stop at four more UNESCO sites.

The Golden Temple of Dambulla and the ancient city of Sigiriya are first. The five cave sanctuaries of Dambulla have been a sacred pilgrimage site for 22 centuries and is the best-preserved cave temple complex in Sri Lanka. You must climb several hundred steps to reach the caves.

A few miles away, the ruins of the capital Sigiriya, built by King Kassapa I in the fifth century, are perched atop a 1000-foot-high rock that dominates the countryside. A series of staircases provide access. It is a challenging climb but worth the effort. Take water and plan for several hours to visit.

Polonnaruwa, the second capital of Sri Lanka, is also nearby. The walled city contains the ruins of the Royal Palace built 700 years ago and the Vatadage Temple.

The Lankatilaka Image House, a 55-foot-high cathedral-like structure, and the four Buddha statues in the rock shrine of Gal Vihara are not to be missed.

About 60 miles to the northwest is the sacred city of Anuradhapura, established in 3rd century B.C. by Sanghamitta, the founder of an order of Buddhist nuns.

The city flourished for 13 centuries before it was abandoned after an invasion of Tamils. It was overgrown by jungle until the 19th century, when the British began to excavate. It is now an amazing place to visit, offering monuments, palaces and monasteries being accessible.

This is as far north in Sri Lanka as recommended for travel by the U.S. State Department. Civil strife, which has lasted more than 20 years, is winding down but further north was the focus of fighting. Land mines make off-road travel dangerous. While caution is advised, Sri Lanka is generally a safe place to travel.

Heading south from the cultural triangle toward Nuwara Eliya, the scenic diversity is unique. How many shades of green are there anyway?

See the rice fields, rubber tree plantations and small villages, where it appears that everyone saves everything. Bamboo forests and mangrove thickets, waterfalls - small and large - make for a fascinating drive.

People watching is also great. The children walking home from school are clad in white shirts and white trousers or skirts. The girls, not the boys, wear neckties. Cricket is the national sport and games are everywhere.

"Sri Lankan people are very friendly and very hospitable," Ramanujam said. "The most beautiful thing here are the people. They are friendly. If you need help or directions you can end up with a crowd willing to help you."

Be sure to stop at at least one tea plantation and get a free tour of the factory. Before the tour, have a cup of tea and a pastry while relaxing on the patio.

Near Nuwara Eliya, I had a choice between a fine hotel operated by the Ceylon Hotel Corporation, and a room at a guesthouse on a hillside. I took the guesthouse. It had a fabulous view and only three guest rooms.

Breakfast and dinner was included and was served family style in the dining room of the home. The owner suggested a hike that took me to a small cave temple and a very interesting waterfall. The tab? Only $44.

Words and photographs can't describe the drive from Nuwara Eliya to the beaches south of Galle. You leave a flat area called Horton Plains toward Worlds End then come to a sheer 3000-foot drop that affords a view unmatched and difficult to photograph. It's one of those places best recalled in your mind's eye.

I have never visited Adam's Peak, but should you have a desire to do something really interesting, a path to the summit with 9,600 steps awaits. I am told the climb takes three hours and is best starting at 2 a.m. to allow you to see the sunrise. I'll wait for the movie, thank you.

The Sinharaja Forest Reserve is Sri Lanka's last rain forest. A hike through the forest takes about three hours, and waterproof clothing is a necessity. Daylong jeep excursions that include a guide start from Ratnapura, which is also the gem capital of the Island.

On to the beach.

It is now that you encounter areas affected by the tsunami. Several hotels were devastated and are closed, but many are open and those on higher ground were never touched. It is best to have reservations before arriving.

In Ahangama, just south of Galle, the Hotel Club Lanka offers a lovely beach, outside gardens and swimming pool, with good food and friendly service from $50 per day including breakfast.

The Hotel Hillside on the outskirts of Galle is a modern three-story place with a dinning room on the top floor and a commanding view of the countryside. Comfortable rooms range from $18 per night to a small suite with all meals at $44. It affords a good base for travel.

The Koggala Beach hotel was virtually undamaged and offers first-class seaside rooms on the beach with meals from $70.

A visit to the old town of Galle within the walls of the fort built by the Dutch in 1637 is a must, and the market areas outside the walls washed away by the December disaster are up and running again, a testimonial to the desire to restore normality.

The beaches are pristine; relax and enjoy them. Travel to Weligama south of Galle and discover the lace factories, small shops along the costal highway were you see women making the handmade lace that this town is famous for.

Shopping

Many flights departing Sri Lanka leave in the wee hours of the morning, and it is best to stay your final night in Colombo and do some shopping.

Be sure to visit Odell, Majestic City, and Unity Plaza. The price of name-brand clothing will have you wondering if they might be knock offs rather than the real thing. They're real, and a careful shopper can find things at a fraction of what they cost in the states.

Street markets offer many crafts and haggling about the price is normal. Clothing at street vendors may be of lower quality.

Leaving

At the Colombo airport hire a porter to take care of your luggage. His sign will say 30 rupees per bag. Pay him 100 per bag, and, trust me, he will save you lots of time. If your airline ticket does not include the exit tax, remember that it must be paid in Sri Lankan currency. It is 1500 rupees ($15).

While Sri Lanka might not be the travel destination for everyone, it is a unique, interesting and beautiful place, truly a land like no other.

WILLIAM RECKTENWALD teaches journalism at Southern Illinois University Carbondale reckman@siu.edu